August 29, 2009

at the beach, Marin Headlands

click photo for full-size image
photo by Donald Kinney

Sometimes it gets so blithering hot here in Marin County that the only option is to head down to Rodeo Beach, not far from the Golden Gate Bridge, and cool off.   Bring your dog, tennis balls, surfboard, and camera...

click photo for full-size image
photo by Donald Kinney

Even though I've spent most of my life living within a few miles of the ocean, I don't surf -- not that I wouldn't like to try someday, but I just don't think I have the coordination, endurance, or constitution to brave the frigid water -- wetsuit or not.   But one thing I can work on is the lingo...

Large wave that forms with distinct shoulders on either side (left and right) of the peak.   Can result in two surfers surfin the same wave . . . one going frontside and the other going backside.

A soft foam board ridden on the belly by those who can't or won't stand up, generally hated by all surfers as they usually get in the road, also known as bodyboard.

A wave that breaks along it's entire length simultaneously, often unreadable and no good for surfing.   Usually causes a WIPEOUT.

Similar to dude but its really a derogetory name for someone who is weak/a poser.   The person you say it to will think you are calling them your brother, but you really think they suck.

Another method of getting through a breaking or broken wave.

1. A maneuver that involves launching the board off the lip of the wave onto a section of broken or breaking wave in front, unweighting, and free falling down the face with the breaking white water.   Where you are on your board waiting for a wave.
2. A person (normally a tourist!) who swims or body surfs in the water and gets in your way while surfing.

When the waves comes over your head and covers you, inside the wave and surfing.

Someone who does not understand that to be a surfer you must be a surfer.   Surfing is a way of the spirit and life.   Surfers are those who are one with Kai and ther bourd.   Haters are the ones who are not but pretend to be and get angry when real surfers wont accept them.   Surfers aren't making fun of these posers cuase we hate them we make fun to force them to stop being posers learn how how to surf force themselves to become one with Kai and their Board and become REAL surfers, till then they are nothing but smog-breather posers.

To execute a wave perfectly.

A good wave. Wave are said to be "juicy" if they have power, speed and clean faces.   "The waves are really juicy today."

(ka-hoo-na) Hawaiian tern for a man that surfs usually with a degree of skill.

Great White shark.

A break is said to be 'maxed-out' when the swell is so big it will no longer break cleanly, but will close out or 'section'.

click photo for full-size image
photo by Donald Kinney

Technique used by longboarders who attempt to ride as close as possible to the nose of the board.

To fall down the face of the wave inside the falling lip.   Getting pitched head-first and slammed by the lip of a crashing wave.

When your nose goes under, you go over the nose, the board flips behind you, the wave closes on you and you become a sandwich.   Can be a dangerous situation.

Sweet, awesome

Maneuver which involves surfing up into the lip of a breaking wave, then coming back down with it.

1. A person that is your friend and that is crazy.
2. The person that is the furthest out from the shore.

Someone who wipes out often.

Longboards in the hands of those who can't control them.

When the wave is not a big wave.

Someone who nose dives all the time and slides across the nose of their board!

[ Apparently there are no surfer terms beginning with X. ]


1. Totally dumb and wacked out surfer.
2. Newbie surfer who never touches the water.

[ source: ]

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Louise said...

I've always wanted to try, but it's likely to not happen.

Very clever for your ABC's. I like "X."


photowannabe said...

Thanks for all the lingo and I'm so totally not a surfer or going in that frigid water either.
By the way, a Happy Birthday to you too.
photowannabe Sue

DeniseinVA said...

A little bird (aka Louise over at Potted Frog) told us it was your birthday, and so I wanted to come over and wish you Happy Birhday! Also to say how much I have enjoyed visiting your blog. Your photos are wonderful!

AphotoAday said...

HI LOUISE -- I always had a paper-route and other jobs on the weekends so I never got to hang out on the beach much -- I am such a dode...

AND HI PHOTOWANNABE SUE -- Yeah, that water is really cold -- I used to swim in Monterey Bay once in a while when I was a kid, but that's much too adventurous for me now at my advanced age.   They say that a wet-suit helps, but you've still got hands, feet, and a head to worry about...

AphotoAday said...

AND HI DENISE -- Well, glad to meet you -- I'll have to go over to Louise's Blog (Potted Frog) and see what all the fuss is about.   She is one of my biggest cheerleaders and I think she is just super...   Must be great having her as a wife or a mom!

Unknown said...

Another "Happy Birthday" to you! (from a loyal reader of Potted Frog) My husband and I are reminiscing our trip to SF while admiring your photos. We went over Labor Day - so it is almost 7 yrs to the day. Hope you have a WONDERFUL Birthday! (My younger sister's bday is today also - excellent karma!)

Jane said...

Great surfing shots, Donald. I see it's your birthday -- have a good one. Keep taking the great shots!

Müge Tekil said...

Happy Birthday dear Donald! I wish that each day of your new year will be full of happiness and joy!

I agree with Jane. Your surfing shots are wonderful! Thank you also for sharing with us surfing terminology, I didn't know many of these terms :-)

Have a beautiful day,

Best regards,

Civic Center said...

That is one of the greatest surfing photos I've ever seen (and I've seen lots). It was such a treat to see you again in the flesh, on Polk Street of all places.

Tomate Farcie said...

Ooooooooooooooooooo!! Some really great shots, there :)

Davis Miller said...

I like this place! I love the idea and wish there was a place like this in Astoria, Queens. I am a surfer and found a "real surfer bar" in Point Break NYC. I am kinda jealous ;0PIts filled with surfers, people who like surfers, people who like the beach and people who don't want to live close to town. I really like this place. You know what they have these real Proctor and Channel One surfboards on the wall. It's nice for coming any day of the week and eating a late brunch. The food was outstanding. The brunch and sides were prefect and tasty. It is a perfect "escape" from city living. It is probably one of the only places where you can get a nice frozen pina colada or margarita. The service was on hit. They came up and checked on us so many times and made sure everything was up to par. It gets very active and the bartenders keep everybody having a good time. The bartender was very accommodating. He was nice enough to make a drink, that wasn't on the menu, for me :0) Did I mention the bartenders are nice eye candy. It was amazing to see their “das boot” which is shaped like a boot filled with beer. Don’t get me wrong, I am not drunk…it’s an actual boot shaped beer container ready to be emptied. Try it ..You will love it!! Oh. How can I forget, they even have a wheel o' shots where you just have to spin it and have to drink whatever shot it lands on!! Now call that bar creativity at its best!!! And when I spill a tray full of shots on myself, the bartender so kindly remakes them for me? Good music, too, and the decor helped us weather an otherwise overcast and rainy day. You know that old song "Brandy"? It goes, "Brandy, you're a fine girl, what a good wife you would be. But my life, my lover, my lady is the sea." I believe Brandy works here. No reason, I just do. And that song happens to be a guilty pleasure of mine, so that's a plus in my book. You can simply waltz over to this colorful and warm establishment, enjoy some drinks with friends, and walk home. The bar is right at the center, so you can walk to either side for drinks, and the bartenders are friendly and at your service. There is a variety of seating, good music, and friendly neighborhood people to make your time more enjoyable. Not pretentious, very cozy, I think Point Break is a fabulous place to spend some time with friends.

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